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Chemical Peels: A Primer

A chemical peel is a controlled chemical injury, and nearly everything worth knowing about one follows from its depth.
Five small bottles of liquid from clear to amber in a row on a white shelf

An acid, or a blend of acids, is applied to the skin so that a measured thickness of it separates and is replaced from beneath. That has been the whole idea for a century.

What has changed is the range. A glycolic solution takes off little more than the outermost dead layer. A phenol and croton oil formula reaches the deeper dermis and is performed with cardiac monitoring.

Calling both "a peel" is like calling a paring knife and a cleaver "a blade". This hub collects the three guides that cover peels directly.

What the depth decides

Read the guides in order if the subject is new. Jump to the one that answers your question if it is not.

Depth decides what a peel can improve

A superficial peel addresses surface texture, dullness and mild uneven pigment. A medium peel reaches fine lines, sun damage and more stubborn pigment.

A deep peel is reserved for heavy photodamage and etched lines. It is a different undertaking with a different consent form.

Depth decides downtime and risk

A superficial peel produces mild flaking for a few days in most people. A medium peel produces a week or so of visible peeling, then redness that fades over weeks.

A deep peel means two weeks of wound care and pinkness that can take months to settle. Risk runs in the same direction: pigment change, scarring and infection are rare at the surface and real at depth.

Depth also decides who may hold the brush. In California, the esthetician's scope stops at the epidermis, and anything deeper is a medical procedure.

The luxury of a good peel is not the price. It is the judgement of the person choosing the acid, the strength and the number of layers for a particular face on a particular day.

Peel or needle

When comparing options, the useful distinction is between what a peel does that microneedling cannot and what microneedling does that a peel cannot. A peel removes. A needle wounds without removing.

Which one suits a given face is a consultation question. A practice that offers both, My Aesthetic Doctor among the Los Angeles clinics whose service list spans skin rejuvenation, is better placed to answer it than one that sells a single procedure.

Two notes before reading further

First, the phrase "medical-grade" has no legal definition. It is marketing shorthand for an acid strength that a licensed medical provider is permitted to use, and the planning hub covers who may perform what in this state.

Second, the sun. Every peel, at every depth, leaves skin that burns and pigments more readily for weeks, and Los Angeles has no low-sun season in any meaningful sense.

Recovery plans here revolve around shade and a mineral sunscreen, not around the calendar. Readers who want somewhere to walk during a peeling week ask us often.

The shaded groves of the Arboretum in Arcadia are the standing recommendation, with a hat. Go early, before the light is direct.

Local context

The density of clinics along the Hollywood and Sunset corridors is partly a business-district story. The Hollywood Partnership publishes the improvement-district material that explains why so many opened on the same blocks.

That story is about rent and foot traffic. It says nothing about who holds the applicator, which is the fact worth checking first.

Readers who write to us confusing housing and health agencies are directed gently to HACLA. It is the city housing authority and has nothing to do with medical licensing.

Complaints about a practitioner go to the Medical Board of California or the Board of Registered Nursing, depending on the licence. The medical-grade guide explains how to check one.

Notes on file

Reading on

Start with the mechanics, or skip to the limits

If you already know the depths, go straight to the comparison; if you are unsure a peel is even the right category, the limits guide saves a consultation. Both sit beside the planning notes in the Los Angeles planning hub.